What it means

E:17 points to a problem with the lint-screen temperature sensor—the small component that keeps tabs on the air temperature moving past the lint filter. When that reading looks wrong or drops out entirely, the dryer flags E:17 to protect the machine (and you) from overheating or running inefficiently.

Why it happens

Most E:17s come down to one of four things: a loose plug on the sensor harness, damaged wiring, a sensor that’s gone out of spec, or poor airflow that makes temperatures fluctuate in ways the control board doesn’t expect. Heavy lint buildup in the screen, housing, or vent can be the silent culprit here—restricted airflow forces hotter pockets of air around the sensor.

What you can try first

Start simple and safe. Unplug the dryer for a minute to fully power it down. While it’s off, remove the lint screen and clean it thoroughly (if you use dryer sheets, wash the screen with warm water and a drop of dish soap to clear waxy residue, then dry it). If you can see into the lint screen cavity, vacuum out loose lint. Trace the vent hose to the wall and make sure it isn’t crushed or packed with lint; long or kinked vents are common airflow killers. Reconnect power and run an air-only or low-heat cycle to see if E:17 clears.

If the code returns

Cut power again and check the small two-wire connector that feeds the temperature sensor near the lint-screen housing (location can vary by model). If the plug looks half-seated, click it in firmly. Look along the harness for nicks, pinches, or brittle insulation. Any obvious damage means the harness should be replaced rather than taped over. When the harness is intact but the error persists, the sensor itself is the next suspect. These sensors aren’t expensive and usually swap out with a couple of screws; take a photo of wire positions, move one wire at a time, and avoid yanking on the leads.

When to call a pro

If you’ve restored airflow, verified the connector, and replaced the sensor but E:17 still pops up, the control board may be misreading the temperature circuit—or there may be a hidden blockage deeper in the lint ducting. At that point, professional diagnostics make sense: a tech will meter the sensor at room temperature, heat it gently to confirm response, continuity-check the harness end-to-end, and test the board’s input circuit. They’ll also snake or clean the internal ducts if airflow is marginal.

Prevent it from coming back

Clean the lint screen every load. Wash it monthly if you use softener sheets. Keep the vent run as short and straight as possible, with a smooth-wall metal duct—no long, ribbed plastic hoses. Seasonally, pull the dryer forward and vacuum the rear duct and the wall cap; outside, make sure the flap opens freely and isn’t bird-nested. Good airflow keeps temperatures stable, shortens dry times, and dramatically reduces E:17 recurrences.

E:17 is your dryer’s way of saying “temperature readings don’t make sense.” Restore airflow, reseat the wiring, and—if needed—replace the lint-screen temperature sensor. If the code survives those steps, it’s time for a deeper electrical check so you’re not chasing the problem in circles.