If your Bosch dishwasher flashes E26, it’s pointing to a problem with the diverter motor—the little actuator that decides where the spray water goes during a wash (upper rack, lower rack, alternation, etc.). When that motor can’t move to the positions the control expects, the board throws E26 and the cycle may stall, clean poorly, or end early.

Why the diverter matters

Modern Bosch machines don’t just blast everything at once; they sequence spray zones to save water and improve coverage. The diverter motor turns a valve inside the sump to route flow. If the motor stalls, the valve sticks, or the control can’t “see” the right position, water ends up in the wrong place—or nowhere useful—and you get E26.

Common triggers (in plain English)

Most E26 cases boil down to a few themes: a jammed diverter valve (bits of glass, seeds, labels, or heavy grit lodged in the sump), a tired motor or worn internal gears, moisture intrusion that makes the motor drag, or a wiring issue—loose connector, chafed harness, or corroded pins. Less common but possible is a control-board fault that can’t read the diverter’s feedback.

Quick self-checks before you call anyone

Unplug the dishwasher or kill the breaker first. Pull the lower rack and filters and look straight into the sump area. If you spot debris, clean it thoroughly and rinse the filter screens. Restore power and run a short cycle; a surprising number of E26 alerts clear once the valve can move freely again. If the code comes back, try a simple reset (power off for a few minutes, then on). You can also peek behind the toe-kick for any obvious water streaks or oxidation around connectors—signs the motor area’s been damp. What you shouldn’t do: force-turn the diverter manually or run the unit with covers off—both can make a small problem bigger.

How a technician will sort it (and why that helps)

A Bosch-savvy tech will run service mode to command the diverter directly, listen for the motor stepping, and confirm whether it “finds home.” They’ll ohm-check the motor, inspect the harness for pin fit and corrosion, and look for scuff marks where the valve has been binding. If the diverter assembly is the culprit, replacement is straightforward, followed by a calibration/test cycle to verify the spray routing. If the wiring is at fault, cleaning and tightening terminals—or replacing a short harness—usually puts E26 to bed.

What you’ll notice when E26 is brewing

People often report weak or one-sided spray, dishes on one rack coming out dirtier than the other, or a rhythmic clicking/whirring as the machine tries (and fails) to move the valve. Sometimes the cycle runs long with little progress, then posts E26 near the end.

Is it safe to keep running the dishwasher?

If the code appears once and clears after cleaning the sump and a reset, you can try a monitored load. If it returns immediately, stop and address it—forcing cycles with a stuck diverter can overheat the motor or stress the control.

Repair outlook and typical costs

Turnaround is usually good: this is a targeted repair, not a teardown. Parts pricing varies by model, but the diverter motor/valve assembly is commonly in the $80–$200 range, with labor typically 1–2 hours depending on access and how stubborn the old gasket is. Wiring rework is often less. If water damage has reached the control board, costs go higher—but that’s the exception, not the rule.

A quick note on model variations

Bosch uses different control logics across generations. On the vast majority of North American models, E26 = diverter motor/valve fault. If your user manual maps E26 differently, follow the manual for your exact model number (the rating tag is usually on the door edge).